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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
 Posted - 04/09/2007 : 16:44:02
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Well, I finally got a chance to take some pics of the center console in its finished state. I wish I took some of it in mid stream for you, oh well, I'll do my best to describe what I did. Here are the pics posted previously of it when I first tore into it and tried to patch up the 100 screw holes and larger areas. In the pics, the instument holes were already filled in, along with the old location of the helm and map inlays on either side of the helm.
These next pics show the completed console. As you can see I relocated the helm where the old switch panel used to be. What used to be the glove box is now the location of the radio with a retractable splash guard over it.
One other thing that I did that was a little different was that I made pods for the instruments that are at a 30 degree angle. Angled so I could read them easier when at the helm. This was a a little tricky, I actually made them out of plywood. I took 3/4" plywood, cut about 5 triangles with a 30 degree angle and laminated them together. Then I used a hole saw and drill press to cut the hol out for the instrument, then used a hole saw 1/2" larger and drilled again, so your left with an angled ring. I made 6 of those and glassed them to the console. This took an extreme amount of patience, but i love the outcome. As you can see, I also installed a waterproof switch panel with circuit breakers.
The windshield, I had to have custom made since I did most of this stuff before finding this site and not knowing there was a surplus store somewhere in FL. The grab rail was made out of stainless tube and rail fittings. I think is looks halfass, but i tried bending the SS tube, but after many failed attempts, i just went with the angled fittings just to protect the windshield. People would always grab onto it if they lost their balance and since it wasn't cheap, I cringed everytime they did that. As far as the cushions go, I'm not much of a sower, so i just glued some marine opencell foam to a 1/4" piece of plywood, gots some marine vinyl, draped it over and stapeled it to the back side of the plywood (coated in resin). Then I inlayed them on another piece of plywood with a mahogony perimeter. I put the seat on hinges so you can access the storage. The backrest is just screwed from the inside of the console. So this is what keeps me off the streets and in debt. Hope you enjoy!!
Well, since the CM site was down, I decided to actually do some work instead of reading about it[:x)]. So I tore into the transom, which was a repair long over due. I started by making a template of the transom out of cardboard. Once i had the exact shape of the transom, I then cut 4" off the perimeter of the template. This way I could trace my cutting line onto the transom itself. The template will also later be used to cut out the new plywood.
Once I traced the shape on the transom, I started cutting. The skin actually came off really easily. You can see here, the skin is off and it unveils 3 separate transom repairs. The top 5" are new, from someone wanting a 25" transom, from the original 20". The center section has been replaced, but only in the middle, down maybe 15". The problem is that the transom kept cracking where new and old work met. It was never done correctly and replaced as one complete section. I guess that's where I come in.
Next was taking out the plywood core. I tried the chainsaw trick, but that wasn't as effective as I thought it would be. So I ended up using a circular saw, cutting sections and using a hammer and prybar. It worked well, it was just time consuming. One thing I didn't expect from all my research I've done was the thickness of the transom. I guess I read too much on transom jobs from the inside because I expected the entire transom to be 1.5" thick, NOPE! From the center point of the transom, the bottom 8" is only 3/4" thick plywood, the top 17" is 1.5" thick, and where the gunwall/cap meets the transom (on the sides), that top 8" is only 3/4" thick. So on a couple occasions I cut too deep with the circular saw. Funny, the bottom 2" actually had no wood at all, it was hollow
As you can see, I have some repairs to make to the inner skin before I put the core back in. I don't know what happened to her in the past, but I know i didn't make any of these holes. I went ahead and used my original template to cut out the new plywood and laminated the two pieces of marine grade together. Here's a test fit pic. I still have a ton a fitting to do to make it just right. More to come
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Edited by - mrdelgado on 12/09/2009 13:25:12 |
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DeepFund
Member
480 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2007 : 19:34:44
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| Nice looking project. Is that how you normally fill a transom core when you do it from the outside? I notice there is a small gap along the entire edge of you core. On another note, is that a Sugarloaf sticker on that Jeep? That's my mountain, we have a house up there. Keep up the good work! |
1980 21, 97 Rude 200
South Shore MA.
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2007 : 20:01:43
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The pic is kinda deceiving, there is a gap, but i beveled the cuts so it's a V shape where the core meets the edge. I plan on bonding the core to the inner skin with thinckened epoxy with cabosil, chopped strand mat and I can't think of the structural type powder. I'll use an excess amount so when i clamp it, it will squish out the sides and fill the gap on the edges. Then i can grind and feather the joint, the 4" on each side and fill it with glass. Once that's faired, i'll throw on 2 layers of some stiched biaxle.
Yeah, that's a sugarloaf sticker. My fam and I are big skiiers. If you ever need someone to house sit for you, let me know |
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Justin
Fortune Favors the Bold
USA
3126 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2007 : 20:15:16
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Sugarloaf?
I used to live 2 mins from Sunday River...
Del, looking good...email me if you need a hand! |
ROGUE I
1978 235 CC
Newburyport, MA
ROGUE II
1987 17' Montauk
Camden, ME
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DeepFund
Member
480 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2007 : 20:49:17
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5004 north woods, the only real log cabin (not anymore they put up 2 last year) on the mountain. My buddy's dad sat on the land for 7 years and finally decided to build. It's a 3 story log cabin sleeps like 24. We went up all the time in high school and built it ourselves. Hired a crane to pile the logs and some locals for the roof but we did the rest. You can see it though the woods on the left about 1/2 mile before you get to the lifts. You'd be surprised how cheap you can build a house when you have high school labor ;)
This is it http://www.tobiqueloghomes.com/, the Brickley lodge is used as the company's home page. Enough of the hi-jacked thread. I like the boat and would love to see more boat porn. |
1980 21, 97 Rude 200
South Shore MA.
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dtmackey
Instigator
USA
5514 Posts |
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SowsEar
New Member
21 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2007 : 22:38:13
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| Many give the Ott-ster a hard time, but he was good to many. Myself included. |
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Justin
Fortune Favors the Bold
USA
3126 Posts |
Posted - 04/10/2007 : 07:36:03
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| Les is a trustee at the prep school I used to be a fundraiser for...he receives very mixed reviews from all walks of life. |
ROGUE I
1978 235 CC
Newburyport, MA
ROGUE II
1987 17' Montauk
Camden, ME
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 04/22/2007 : 18:09:16
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I made a little more progress. The plywood was laminated to the inner skin of the transom. I used a thinkened epoxy to attach the plywood. When clamped, the excess filled all the voided around the perimeter. I couldnt take pics of this becuase it started to rain. But here is the finished product after the vises have been taken off.
Next I ground down the remaining fiberglass around the perimeter of the original transom and the plywood. I was then able to cut 5" strips and glass the two. Multiple layers of stitched biaxle mat where used to build the ares up.
Things were drying fast today since it was mid 70's (finally!!!) So I was able to grind down the glass and make a nice taper. After that was done I wet out two layers of the stitched mat and applied it to the transom. So the structural part of the transom is complete. The resin was kicking off faster than i expected, so those patches on the port side will need to be ground off.
Next up is more grinding, faring and sanding. But that's next weekends project. |
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dtmackey
Instigator
USA
5514 Posts |
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michigan dave
Peacekeeper
USA
7312 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2007 : 05:50:51
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| Looks great, so all in all were you able to use the 1.5 inch laminate wood across the entire transom?? How was your joints between your stringers and your inner skin. Is there any way to go in there and beef that area up if need be?? Thanks for the pics and fine work./ dave |
1979m21 225johnson "blue dolphin" bought off this board and restored
with everyone's help!!Gone but not Forgotten....
1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone
1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone
1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone
1983 224 with closed transom and bracket
And 130 SOB (some other boats)
S.Haven MI>Columbus OH |
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2007 : 08:11:20
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Hey Dave, my email changed again, it's mdelgado@statestreet.com
M Dave, to my surprise, no, the whole transom could not be cored with 1.5". From the waterline down, it is only cored with .75". I premaid my core from my pattern, so when i found this out I had to use a router to knock down .75". I didn't see any way to beef up the stringer from the outside. The joint looks good on the inside so i didn't mess around with it. It would be nice to put some nice big knees in there to stiffin it up though. |
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dmlowe
Member
USA
127 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2007 : 15:28:03
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Hey Mike, a quick question: why didn't you wrap the glass around the sides and bottom? A friend and I are working on an old 19' and performed a similar transom-ectomy, but we took the old core all the way off and ended up having to cut right to the edges. We're planning on wrapping our glass around the sides and bottom about six inches all the way around. Did you have enough intact glass on your transom that you didn't have to wrap, or are you still planning to put on more glass?
This is our first transom so we're curious to learn what the best way to do it is. Thanks. |
Rowayton, CT |
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yachtzmon
Member
USA
520 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2007 : 16:06:39
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I need another boat project like I need a hole in the head..going from the outside in to do a transom has got to be easier than what I did in a complete tear out. assuming the stringers are ok? its got to be easier than having to tearout the splashwell etc..
is that considered a sound way of replacement?
Looking at another mako with a bad transom.. |
yachtzmon
72 19'Mako
140/JACKPLATE |
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2007 : 16:33:55
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Hey Dave, can't wait to see some pics of your project. You're right, what you plan on doing, wrapping it around the sides is the strongest way to do it. When I bought the boat I had to make a repair and actually did just that. I wrapped glass around the entire perimeter. Since I did that a couple years ago, i should be able to get a good 'chemical' bond. To get a good 'physical' bond I used thickened epoxy to bond the plywood to the inner transom skin, which was very solid itself. Then I tapered the perimeter of the plywood and transom and built it up with stitched mat. It should be bullet proof.....actually the edges are since I used Kevlar originally (just wanted to try it). But like i said, stick with your plan and wrap it around the edges, especially if you plan on using polyester resin, and not epoxy.
yachtsmon, I think it's a sound way, and I already did a bunch of work to the interior, so i didn't want to disturb that. Most people here do it from the inside because they tore our their bait boxes, had to do stringer work or were going to a full transom. I also have a ton of gelcoat leftover from when i first refinished the exterior, so matching the rest of the hull won't be a problem. |
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dmlowe
Member
USA
127 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2007 : 17:43:26
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Thanks Mike. Good to know we're on the right track. As for photos, we've posted a bunch but they're about a year old. You could say we got side tracked... Actually the weather here in New England was crazy last sumer, remember? We're working outside so we were at the mercy of the rain at the start of last summer then the heat.
As a matter of fact we are working with polyester resin. We did some stringer repair using the West System epoxy, but quickly realized that it was going to get pretty expensive. We used two sheets of 3/4 marine grade ply laminated with thickened resin and it's rock solid. We just need to fair it out a little more then start glassing.
We may have a few more questions as we progress, paricularly about installing and tabbing the deck... have you done that yet? |
Rowayton, CT |
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2007 : 20:10:00
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quote:
We may have a few more questions as we progress, paricularly about installing and tabbing the deck... have you done that yet?
I never cut my deck out completely. I cut the top skin off, scraped out the rotten core with a putty knife or wide chissle, leaving the lower skin of the deck. Once it was dry I was able to grind the rest off. Then I installed the core the same way as I did the transom. I used thickened epoxy to laminate the plywood to the deck skin and used batteries to weigh in down to get a good bond. Then i went over it with mat. Here's a pic of the core removal process. It's just balsa, so it comes out easily. I believe they put plywood down where the captains chairs are bolted though.
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dmlowe
Member
USA
127 Posts |
Posted - 04/24/2007 : 14:28:56
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Unfortunately, we had to to take the entire deck off. The balsa core was completely rotten and the foam was soaked with a disgusting mixture of gas and water. The center stringer needed to be completely replaced, as well as the gas tank. As you can see from the pic (taken last summer), we're starting from scratch.
Our plan for the deck is to reinforce sheets of 1" marine ply with glassed in stringers on their undersides, tab the sheets down in place then cover the whole thing with glass. We're thinking about drilling a few holes and pouring some two-part foam in for a littles sound insulation and flotation, but we'll see...
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Rowayton, CT |
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jbsmako
Member
USA
80 Posts |
Posted - 04/26/2007 : 07:45:01
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I will be laying in the coosa board in a few days after prepping the inner skin(outside job)and was wondering if anyone has mechanically fastened it in along with the the cabosil base. I plan on using 1/4 20 machine screws countersunk into the coosa that will act as a clamp and a permanent fastener. Any thoughts or ideas are welcome. Thanks
jbsmako
obx,nc
1973 23' Mako |
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 04/26/2007 : 11:45:24
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| I think the only problem with putting screws through the coosa and into the inner skin is that you'll potentially let moisture in where the screw pierced the inner skin |
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jbsmako
Member
USA
80 Posts |
Posted - 04/26/2007 : 13:53:16
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I will be using machine screws,shoulder washers and nuts sealed with silcone to prevent moisture intrusion. With coosa and resin I don't anticipate moisture being a problem, that caused me to replace it in the first place. No wood whatsover. thanks for the input.
jbsmako
obx,nc
1973 23' Mako |
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2007 : 22:35:19
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Here are a couple more pics of the progress. This weekend I was able to do a little faring. I ground the fiberglass off that kicked a little sooner than expected and also tried to take down some of the high spots.
Next I filled in the low spots with more glass. Then ground that down, and applied filler which I made with the resin, a little bit of microbaloons ( which made it a brown color) cabosil and silica.
Once a majority of the fairing was done, I applies some easy fairing filler with a 12" straight edge to get the grind marks and pits. I was suprised how little fairing the transom required. I must be learning from all my mistakes.
Now that a majority of the fairing is complete I decided to drill the the holes out for the engine bolts, and drain holes. I went with the tried and trued method of using pcv pipe as sleeves and epoxying them in. This way the wood core will not be touched by any water.
I then cut down the pcv and decided to go ahead and block the transom . I took off a majority of the filler, but it looks like i ended up with a cow print on the transom. Believe it or not, the transom is extremely true.
I was going to throw a coat of gelcoat on, but I opened up the gallon and it all dried up. It started to drizzle out anyway, so maybe it was good that i didn't rush this. |
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weir mako 21
Fire-Maine-iac
USA
1839 Posts |
Posted - 05/05/2007 : 23:05:16
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quote:
Originally posted by mrdelgado
I was going to throw a coat of gelcoat on, but ... It started to drizzle out anyway, so maybe it was good that i didn't rush this.
This New England spring has been a royal pain. I tried to gelcoat my gunnel repairs and either the wind has been blowing 25mph or it has been overcast and rain for 2 weeks. I finally snuck a decent day last week and managed to spray, but it has been an excercise in patience. Looks like the 22 will be ready for the mid-may launch Mike. Keep up the good work and we'll see you on the river soon enough.
-John |
Weir Mako 21
1985 21B
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32089
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 05/06/2007 : 20:30:30
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This weather has been a pain John! I thought it was going to warmer today and be a nice day for some glass work, but nope.....but I worked anyway.
So I did a little more fairing today and then put a coat of gelcoat on (1:1 gelcoat and duratec high gloss additive and a little acetone to cut it). I have a couple pin holes and low spots. So I'll be doing a little more filling and fairing and spraying next weekend
Since it was only in the 50's today I had to put the heaters on so the gelcoat would cure. So I'm getting there.....
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Michael R. Delgado
1972 Mako 22
http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745
1976 Mako 25
http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25
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dtmackey
Instigator
USA
5514 Posts |
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ob1jeeper
Chief Engineer
USA
5655 Posts |
Posted - 05/07/2007 : 00:59:41
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Lookin' Good.  . Keep the faith, the light at the end of the tunnel is getting closer... |
Working for a livin' is HIGHLY Over-Rated...
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 05/07/2007 : 12:28:46
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Dave, the drive isn't too too bad. It takes me about 40 min. if i leave early in the morning. But it's the price i pay for cheap storage fees and a free place to work on the boat
Right Steve, almost there! I'm going to fair a couple more spots on the transom, fix some cracks on the interior from all the flexing of the old transom and then re-gelcoat from the bait wells back. When all that's dry, it should take me a day to put the whole boat back together
I have to admit I would have made a lot more progress yesterday if it wasn't for a stupid mistake, funny though. I spent a couple hours wetting out some glass and putting it on the cracks on the interior. I couldn't understand why it was taking so long for the West sytem to dry, but I just worked on something else. Finally my dad comes home and inspects my work and asked me about the west system because he was using it on his sailboat for the first time. He was really confused why I was using a gallon of resin and mixing it with a quart of resin[:u] I thought he was crazy, but i look at my materials on the bench and I bought a quart of resin instead of the hardener[88] Boy did I feel like a dumba$$. So that's why the repairs weren't curing........ In my defense I was hung over from a wedding from the previous day or early morning, however you want to look at it. Needless to say i had to do all my glasswork over. |
Michael R. Delgado
1972 Mako 22
http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745
1976 Mako 25
http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 06/13/2007 : 12:30:32
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Well, I haven't made any progress in a while. So i got my butt in gear this weekend. I ended up putting the final coat of gelcoat on the transom and baitwell. I also resprayed all the water channels in the boat because I did a lot of work on the floors. Now that the water channels are complete, I can lay down the non-skid next weekend. So here are a couple pics of the progress. I had to cover the boat with a tarp because the trees are rediculous with crap falling from them.
These are the before spraying pics
Here are some pics of the water channels sprayed and also the perimeter of the cosole sprayed
This isn't a very good pic, but this is the transom completed with the engine hung. I backed the stern into the garage to prevent tree droppings from getting in the gelcoat
This is the boat covered in plastic and back in the garage. It actually worked really well
I forgot to add this pic of the baitwell after it was sprayed
I'll try to take some better pics next weekend.
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Edited by - mrdelgado on 06/14/2007 07:39:48 |
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Greene
Member
USA
1654 Posts |
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 06/13/2007 : 13:02:26
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| Thanks! I really like the original layout, even the bait boxes everyone cuts out, they make a great casting platform for flyfishing. The only thing I would have like to do if i were to keep the boat is fabricate in floor storage in the bow. That seems to be a lot of unused space. |
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t-bone
Pork Chop
USA
4040 Posts |
Posted - 06/13/2007 : 17:38:31
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I been following this one too! As I am trying to keep mine pretty original as well but doing the transom from the inside. When I look at that transom it looks to be 25" am I missing something I don't recall you talking abougt raising it. But in any event everything sure looks great! Keep up the good work.
Todd
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Mako 22b, Lost to hurricane irene and a 4' oak tree
Annapolis, MD |
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
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ilovewindydays
Member
241 Posts |
Posted - 06/13/2007 : 22:44:53
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Just one question,
Where is the shoe picture? |
cheers,
Scott
1990 Mako 231, 2008 Etec 225
Stuart, Florida
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
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weir mako 21
Fire-Maine-iac
USA
1839 Posts |
Posted - 06/15/2007 : 21:00:56
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Looks great Mike. Must be tough to motivate yourself to work on the old boat when that "new" 25' is waiting in the wings. Are you going to fish the 22 this season and get into working on the 25 or try to run the big boat the way it is for a while?
-John |
Weir Mako 21
1985 21B
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32089
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 06/16/2007 : 07:37:08
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Thanks John, it definitely has been tough to stay motivated... But I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'll try to put one coat on the floor today with the nonskid. then i'll do the topcoat tomorrow and be done.
I probably will fish the 22 as long as i can. It's great for the flats since it doesn't draw too much water. But she'll have a for sale sign on her too |
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weir mako 21
Fire-Maine-iac
USA
1839 Posts |
Posted - 06/16/2007 : 08:26:57
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I'm working today (Sat) or I'd stop up to see the progress. Don't worry about the extra draft of the 25 on the flats. I had the 21 out there on Thursday and managed a couple of bass and had a blue cut me off. Good luck finishing up this weekend. Hopefully the weather will hold as predicted should be good temps for resin work(if you use hardener this time....sorry couldn't resist!!).
-John |
Weir Mako 21
1985 21B
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32089
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Rich Mako 228
Member
USA
377 Posts |
Posted - 06/16/2007 : 18:48:30
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| I don't think the PVC sleeves are such a great idea. Most PVC that I've seen is marked with 'not for pressure' and that spot is under ALOT of pressure. Actually, I don't think any material should be used to sleeve the outboard bracket bolts, just about a guarantee to spin...imo. |
Richard
Miami
Pearson Flyer 30 |
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mrdelgado
GQ
USA
4257 Posts |
Posted - 06/18/2007 : 20:30:13
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Yeah John, stop by anytime. I mostly at the american yacht club now. I couldn't stand all the debris from the trees. I felt like i spent more time cleaning.
Rich, that's a good point. When I installed them I ground them down about a 1/4 inch on each side, then built in back up with fiberglass. I'm hoping the load is dispursed with the 2" washers I used and transom stiffener bar on the interior. On the exterior of the transom, I would think the motors mounting bracket disburses a lot of the compression. I was never sure how tight to put the bolts on, but I did about 60 lbs and used nylocks so they wouldn't back off. |
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1972 22 work
