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 Updated wiring diagram, few questions
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Davoboat
Member

102 Posts

Posted - 12/27/2017 :  12:36:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have a few questions on this diagram.

1. I'm planning on installing two ACR's right at the battery bank up in the cabin right next to the wiring panel. The blueseas website shows 6ga for anything under 50amps but I believe these old v4 motors only put out 10amps max. I assume 10ga and maybe 30amp fuses would be fine under normal circumstances, but the recommendations from blue seas are to cover current flow if the battery charges are significantly different, right?

2. From each of the start batteries to their rear motor positive power posts I'm using 2/0. From the power posts to the motors would 2ga be fine or do I want that 2/0 all the way to the motor even if it's way oversized?

3. Kind of in line with the question above, I only have one 2/0 going from the rear power post to the battery bank negative side. I plan on running 2ga from each motor ground to this rear post, instead of running two separate ground cables all the way back to the battery bank. Seeing as how I won't be starting both motors at once, this should be fine, right? (I recognize that a bad ground in the 2/0 line could disable both motors)







1978 Chrysler 22 sailboat (sold)
1973 Catalina 22 sailboat (sold)
1983 Compac 23 sailboat (sold)
1973 Mako 17 (fishing machine)
1983 Mako 258 (current project)


Edited by - Davoboat on 12/27/2017 17:57:25

keyman
Member

USA
2076 Posts

Posted - 12/28/2017 :  17:11:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just a few comments:
Consider running separate negatives for each motor
There seems to be a few busbars
Some of the text is not clear
Verify the cable runs to the bilge for pump controls and calculate Amp draw for each pump to determine proper wire gauge. (#10 or #12AWG minimum
Consider using BEP cluster with VSRs for battery management
Consider using duplex wire for controls
Consider using LEDs for are lighting for reduce wiring requirements
Use your motor harnesses which are more flexible rather than 2/0 cables and include trim and sensors, tach and ignition wires
Hope this helps

Keyman
Paoli, PA
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Davoboat
Member

102 Posts

Posted - 12/28/2017 :  19:42:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by keyman

Just a few comments:
Consider running separate negatives for each motor
There seems to be a few busbars
Some of the text is not clear
Verify the cable runs to the bilge for pump controls and calculate Amp draw for each pump to determine proper wire gauge. (#10 or #12AWG minimum
Consider using BEP cluster with VSRs for battery management
Consider using duplex wire for controls
Consider using LEDs for are lighting for reduce wiring requirements
Use your motor harnesses which are more flexible rather than 2/0 cables and include trim and sensors, tach and ignition wires
Hope this helps




Yeah in hindsight I could probably have totally gone without those larger busbars, the + isn't even needed and the negative could have just been another power post to save room on the panel. I imagine I'll redo the panel down the road once I upgrade to the BEP anyways.

1978 Chrysler 22 sailboat (sold)
1973 Catalina 22 sailboat (sold)
1983 Compac 23 sailboat (sold)
1973 Mako 17 (fishing machine)
1983 Mako 258 (current project)

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Triplecrownnc
TC

USA
11505 Posts

Posted - 12/29/2017 :  07:59:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Davoboat

quote:
Originally posted by keyman

Just a few comments:
Consider running separate negatives for each motor
There seems to be a few busbars
Some of the text is not clear
Verify the cable runs to the bilge for pump controls and calculate Amp draw for each pump to determine proper wire gauge. (#10 or #12AWG minimum
Consider using BEP cluster with VSRs for battery management
Consider using duplex wire for controls
Consider using LEDs for are lighting for reduce wiring requirements
Use your motor harnesses which are more flexible rather than 2/0 cables and include trim and sensors, tach and ignition wires
Hope this helps




Yeah in hindsight I could probably have totally gone without those larger busbars, the + isn't even needed and the negative could have just been another power post to save room on the panel. I imagine I'll redo the panel down the road once I upgrade to the BEP anyways.



I looked briefly at your wiring and it looks like it going to be nice and neat. Having everything tight like that makes it increasingly difficult to trace a wire if you are having an issue or to change/add something. I suggest you do your BEP right out of the gate and add plenty of spare places on the bars to add new things.

David, New Kent, Va



Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21067
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